If the overcrowded beaches of urban Busan or the beaches on the east coast aren’t as idyllic as you envisioned, head to the islands of Geoje and Namhae, where the summer tourist pressure is less and the countryside is rugged.

Mountains face out to the sea and plunge down to meet the rocky coastline and in between the jagged shores, you’ll find some sandy beaches carved into landscape.

Geoje Island is the second largest island in Korea and Namhae Island is third. Both are connected to the mainland by bridges and all the beaches listed below are easily accessible by car and local buses that go from village to village.

As the summer vacation “window” approaches, that timeframe where the entire country is seemingly on holiday and migrates to the nearest beach, it would be prudent to head out soon. Even the most remote beaches can fill up fast.

Or consider heading to the beach in early September, when the vacation “window” closes and the beaches become vacant and peaceful again.

Geoje Island

Driving on Highway 14, the first beach you will see just before the city of Gohyeon is the Geoje Windsurfing Marina. With a boathouse and equipment storage facilities for the boards, it’s where area windsurfers go out to ride the waves. The beach has a sandy bottom and the tidal range is long enough that the bay is shallow when the tide is in, it resembles a sandy mud flat when the tide is out.

By cutting away from Highway 14, which is the main artery of traffic on the island, head to the northern tip of Geoje on roads less traveled. One option is to go back off the island by going to the small island of Chilchun that connected to Geoje by a three-year-old bridge. Often overlooked because its not part of Geoje Island, Yupgi Beach is a small country beach only visited by some of the island locals. Standing there is only a beach house with bathroom and showers, so stock up on supplies before you drive the distance to the beach.

Back on Geoje proper and circling the northern tip is Hwangpo Beach, the most undeveloped and remote of the beaches on the island. A dirt road leads down to the beach where fishermen spread out their nets in the sand. With no nearby houses or farms and just a forested cove, it offers the best choice for privacy and peacefulness.

A few minutes away is Guyeong Beach, a thin strip of sand that is backed by a seawall and abuts the main street of this sleepy village. Amongst the scattered piles of fishing nets and ropes, it’s more of place to go for a walk rather than spend an entire day at.

Rounding the northern tip of the island is Nongso pebble beach. A few scattered homes and shops make up the small village next to the long curving strip of stones and pebbles.

Heading back south on the east side of the island is Heungnam Beach. Almost hidden in a bowl shaped valley, you must descend down the steep road that leads into the village. Heungnam has heavier wave action than the other beaches, but still not enough for surfing.

Deokpo Beach is right on the other side of the city of Okpo, separated by a ridgeline where a shrine to Admiral Yi Sun Shin is located. With its close proximity to Okpo’s restaurants, and its hotel rooms overlooking the beach, this would be a good choice for a romantic weekend.

Back on Highway 14, passing by the massive Daewoo Shipyard and edging around the city of Jangseungpo, continue another 15 minutes to Wahyeon Beach. It is tucked below a steep hill and protected on three sides by forested mountainsides. One of the better quality beaches on the island, it has good sand that extends gradually out into the bay, making it good for swimming and splashing about.

Only a couple minutes away is Gujora Beach, popular among the expat residents on the island. Unlike other Korean beaches, Gujora isn’t backed by a village and thus offers more solitude. The village is at the far end and straddles a thin isthmus. One side of the village is the beach and the other is a protected harbor. The beach is long and curved with most of the good sand closest to the village and then smooth rocks dot the sand until they cover most of the opposite end.

Further down the coast is Hakdong pebble beach, over a kilometer long and covered with smooth stones that range in size from rugby balls to smooth pebbles that are perfect for skipping across the water. It’s believed that walking across the stones barefoot increases circulation of blood and gi energy.

On the southern tip is Haegeumgang, a jagged island of rock jutting out into the sea. Nearby is Yeocha pebble beach and on the other side of the mountainous tip is the picturesque Myeongsa beach, framed by tall cliffs topped with gnarled pine trees.

Namhae Island

Highway 19 takes you to three beaches on the east side of Anggang Bay.

Nearby Geum Mountain looms over Sangju Beach. It is one of the widest and expansive beaches on the south coast, with nearly the length of a football field of sand between the water and mature pine trees that rim the beach. Because of its size, it is the most popular beach in the area and thus, its gets more visitors than the other beaches. The village has its host of guesthouses, restaurants and small stores for provisions.

If Sangju Beach is too busy, just cruise five minutes further down the road along Highway 19 to nearby Songjong Beach. The elementary school at the far end of the beach probably gets the vote for the coolest place in the country to spend your primary school years. Songjong is a sizeable beach for the south coast.

Further along to land’s end is Soli Beach, the smallest beach on the island. At the time of this writing, a backhoe was moving rocks to form a small retaining wall. Other than that distraction, it could rank as a near perfect getaway. With clear water, good sand and the small cluster of houses on the hillside, it could be the spot to slip away from the crowds. On the other side of the ridge is the Mijo fish market village where boats anchor in a deep harbor.

On the west coast, Sachon Beach is a little farther off the beaten path and the scene has a quaint feel, with the fishing boats anchored in the bay and a breakwater pier reaching out at the far end. With good quality sand and calm waters from its protected crescent cove, this beach is worth the extra traveling time.

Copyright © James Card.