The ancient relationship of man and beast always provides great sporting action. Like the world of horse racing, or the sled dog teams of the Iditarod, another kind of drama is played out in the riverside bullring of Cheongdo. It is a brutal game of man and animal working together to defeat another man and his animal. The largest national bullfighting tournament begins this weekend.

The sport originated as a farmer's pastime and the stronger bulls were selected for breeding. Like wrestlers or boxers, the native Hanu bulls are ranked into weight classes with the heavyweight division coming in at over 730 kilograms. Although it's a violent sport, bloodshed is a rare occurrence and the bulls only fight until the exhaustion of the loser.

The bulls are in fighting shape from the farmers running them on sand and on mountain trails and they are raised on a mass-building diet of hay, beans and barley. Near competition time, they are fed eels and snakes as a stamina nostrum. The bullring resembles a gladiatorial circle with a corral fence around the perimeter. A judging platform overlooks the scene and the bulls enter the sandy ring with their handlers. The bulls square off and the primal combat is a combination of moves. They speed toward each other and smash heads like two mountain rams vying for superiority. Horns lock together and their necks shiver with the strain. They butt heads and you can hear the sickening smack of bone hitting bone. The bulls grind into each other in a pushing match while thrashing their horns. The instinct to catch the opponent off balance is evident and they hook upward into the neck for leverage or twist around and slam into each other's flanks.

It becomes a test of their massive strength and endurance. The bulls lather with sweat and their nostrils flare for oxygen. Sometimes they pause and snort, stare each other down for a moment, and then flash into another attack. Other times they simply stop with a weird complacent look, as if they were in a peaceful pasture far away from the crowds. A moment later, sand flies from the hooves and the handlers stick near to the side of their bull, prodding him forward while careful of getting trampled. The match is called when it is judged that one bull loses his heart to fight and turns away. Some matches last less than five minutes, while others last the 30-minute maximum and a draw is called.

There is more than honor, defeat and prize money at stake in the bullring. Similar to a professional athlete, the bull's value increases with every win in the ring. Top bulls in their prime can reach an incredible asking price of up to 300 million won. For a rural farmer battling the ever-present economic downturns in the agricultural sector, a bull that wins tournaments equals a hard-won windfall. And like a professional athlete that is severely injured, it's the same for the bulls when their horn is broken off. A professional athlete might retire and open a sports bar and grill, but for the bull, retirement means ending up on the grill.

The spectator can also hold a private stake in the outcome of the bullfights. The National Assembly passed a law last year that legalized gambling on the bullfights, creating what is claimed to be the only place in the world where a person can legally bet on organized public bullfights. And like bettors who play the ponies, bullfight gamblers observe and note the bull's physique, gait and personality. It opens up a whole new market for tip sheets, odds experts, handicapping systems and bookmaking.

Korea Bulls Company is a group associated with the local government that promotes and organizes the bullfight competitions. Lee Yoon-dong, an executive of Korea Bulls, estimates there are about 350 active fighting bulls throughout the country and about 100 bulls will be fighting in this year's tournament. "In a word, this is gambling. But it is different from betting on horse races or bicycle races. It is fairer because the match cannot be thrown; the outcome is entirely up to the animals. And this is different because the profits will go to the local community projects," said Lee. He continued, saying, "Unlike the Spanish way of bullfighting, this is more like Korean 'ssireum' wrestling, but with bulls. Bulls are known for their slowness and for being not so bright, but it's their protective instinct that compels them to their dramatic aggressions."

Last year, the Korean-American Cowboy Association participated at the festival by organizing an American-style rodeo. Made up of U.S. military personnel, these volunteer cowboys competed in bull-riding and bullfighting competitions. Bareback and with no stirrups, reins or saddle, the bull rider's only connection to the bucking bull is a plaited rope twisted around his leather glove. Most hope to hang on for eight seconds. Most do not, and they tumble to the dirt dodging stomping hooves.

In American rodeo terms, the bullfighter is the athlete whose job is to protect fallen cowboys from getting gored by the enraged beast. With agility, and bravery, they face down and distract the bull long enough for the dismounted cowboy to reach the arena wall. Air Force officer Jeremy Sparks became the first American champion bullfighter of the Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival. Recalling his memories of the event, "It will always be a highlight of my career, to have performed overseas and before so many people."

There are several bullfights organized throughout the year in other cities but the Cheongdo tournament is the largest in Korea. Bullfighting is also popular in other Asian countries and Japanese bulls will be entering the ring for a nationalistic grudge match, along with Chinese bulls in other international matches. An estimated 200,000 spectators will be there to watch the brawling of the bulls.

Cheongdo is located in North Gyeongsang Province, 30 minutes southwest of Daegu. For more information, visit the township Web site at http://www.festival.or.kr/chongdo.

Copyright © James Card.